The Everest Marathon
Climb High to Acclimatise
Diana Penny Sherpani / 17.11.2003
Namche Bazaar - Monday 17th Since the two trekking groups left Namche a week ago we’ve been trekking up the Gokyo valley to acclimatise and enjoy the scenery. The route runs up the valley into summer yak-grazing country, but typically for Nepal the way along a valley started with a climb – to the Mong La pass. And just as typically the panoramic view from where the pass crossed the ridge was spectacular. The area is well known for Thar (Himalayan mountain goats) and true to form they were visible on the rocks above us.
At the head of the valley lies the 8000m peak of Cho Oyu and we headed towards that, passing numerous waterfalls and some glacial lakes, and spending 2 nights at Machermo to acclimatise. It’s at 4465m and the lodges provided comfortable and warm conditions to rest up in. It snowed the afternoon we arrived but not for long and it melted the next morning when we pressed onto the yak pasture (yersa) of Gokyo, which is set beside a small lake. It’s a popular spot with many lodges and was far enough for some of the group. It is at 4791m and this was an acclimatisation trek after all, not a peak bagging trip!
That said, all who were feeling fine, and encouragingly that was the majority, went on to try the climb up the nearby peak of Gokyo Ri, one of the classic viewpoints for Everest. Though the view of Cho Oyu from Gokyo is amazing enough – the South face of the mountain fills the head of the whole valley.
There is very little snow on Gokyo Ri this year but the rocky scramble up was hard, hard work to partially acclimatised lungs and legs. Any frustrations (and there were some), about the short days soon evaporated as it became clear that even the fitter competitors were far from acclimatised. The rate of ascent up this valley is steeper than that on the marathon route itself and the top of Gokyo Ri is at 5483, higher than the race start. Those who got to the top saw a panorama including Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. It was worth the climb!
The return route was back down the other side of the valley in one long trek on Sunday, through the village of Phortse, down to the river and back up to the Mong La again. Then another long descent down to the Sarnassa, to get back on the race route. We could have cut north from Phortse on a high trail, but then would have missed out the Tengboche Monastery and the chance to learn the route. At Sarnassa we saw the brilliantly coloured pheasants which are Nepal’s national bird, and could look across the Dudh Kosi valley to Kangtega and Tamserku.See All Event Posts
