The Everest Marathon

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Resting Up At Dingboche

19.11.2003

Deboche to Dingboche

The Trek

Sunlight, and the promise of a little warmth is slow to reach the campsite down in the valley and the nights and early mornings are already bitterly cold. The trail is frozen hard and it’s a steady walk through the forest down to meet the river again. Musk deer have been seen in the trees here. It’s a relatively short walk to the bridge, but coming back the other way during the race the short, sharp climb to the monastery is a tough one.

The new bridge here is an ugly box girder affair above a deep and narrow chasm, which replaced a rickety looking, wood plank affair. Ama Dablam is framed above and though it is one of the lower peaks in the area it draws the eye irresistibly.

From the bridge the trail climbs steadily up alongside the river, and there is time to climb up to the Pangboche monastery, once famed for its (supposed) Yeti scalp. This area is swept by big landslides with new paths beaten across the debris and the bare fields and diminishing woodland give it a barren, harsh look. Soon Everest is lost from view, and won’t be sighted again until climbing Kala Pattar as it is hidden behind Lhotse and Nuptse – it’s a very illusive peak on the Nepali side.

A division in the trail marks the spot where the trek briefly leaves the race route. The trail climbing to the left is the course, and this crosses a brow, then a bridge to Pheriche. However, camping here is unpleasant due to the wind, so the right branch is followed. This crosses the river and goes a short way up the Chukkung valley to the large village of Dingboche, where there is more shelter and plenty of large camping fields.

Two nights are spent here and on the ‘rest’ day there is the choice to climb the ridge above for views of Makalu, go up the Chukkung valley towards Island Peak, one of Nepal’s trekking peaks, or climb up the lower slopes of Ama Dablam to a turquoise lake. Resting, and just enjoying the views is the other option.

Table Manners

Given the circumstances the food on trek is superb, but there is little variety. It’s mainly a mix of noodles, rice, potatoes and vegetables, but by this stage in the trek its starting to get monotonous. A craving for stronger tastes seems to be a symptom of altitude too. Sadly, there are unseemly squabbles to get to the powdered chocolate drink, and it always runs out.

The cold also results in a dash to get a seat well inside the mess tent – if you are stuck on the end by the entrance its freezing. The paraffin lanterns give off a fair bit heat, but it’s a trade off against the fumes and they can flare up alarmingly. Earlier on in the trek it was pleasant to stay after dinner and read or play cards, but not at this altitude. The only warm place now is inside a sleeping bag or by the stove in a lodge (if you can get near it.)See All Event Posts