ITERA Expedition Race
Mountains, Monuments and a Magical Paddle
Rob Howard / 16.08.2022
Day 3 at ITERA began with a mountain trek for most teams, and finished with the majority of teams on their bikes, but it was the Loch Shiel paddle which came between the two, which will be the most memorable stage for the racers.
After the surprise 6 hours stop at Strontian the leaders were set off again just before midnight with the remaining teams following after their 6 hours were up. With steady overnight rain it wasn't the most comfortable of camps, but was welcomed by the teams nevertheless. It will be interesting to see how much they all benefit from the extra rest mid-race.
The Ardgour trek took teams to the remote forestry camp at Pollach, via the direct route on the miners track for the short course teams, or a very indirect route taking in two checkpoints on rocky summits (786m and 888m), for the long course teams. SWECO lead the way, but the race remained close with several other teams tailing them to the morning arrival at Pollach.
There is no doubt the Swedes are the strongest paddlers, and the front half of the race has 3 paddle stages. They have a very efficient and relaxed style of racing, team work built up over many years of training and racing together, and so far hadn't relinquished the lead on the bike and trek stages.
The kayaks were ready for the teams at Pollach, after an overnight operation to float them down Loch Shiel to get them into such a remote location. Race planner Tom Gibbs wanted to start there for a stage which would take the teams down Loch Shiel, the river Shiel and finally out into the sea, and it was one of the most varied paddles any team will ever do in a race. It was full of interesting checkpoint locations too, and had a twist in the tail at the end.
SWECO lead down the loch on a misty, drizzly, wet morning. There are lots of Gaelic words for rain, and most of them probably applied! The shores were wreathed in mist and the views in all directions had a damp soft-focus.
The first checkpoint on the paddle was on a small island, which is used as a burial ground, and the CP was placed by the chapel. After that the Loch opened up to a broader expanse of water again, then turned a corner to pass under Shiel Bridge and enter the short, but stunningly beautiful, Shiel River. As the Loch outflow it was fast flowing, and overhung with canopy of green from the dense riverside trees. Soon teams passed under another, high, arched bridge spanning a narrow canyon. The Life Experience team from France turning the corner to catch sight of it shouted in joy. Oh,la,la!
The river changed again, with the banks opening out into coastal plains and there was a final challenge at the outflow where a small rapid and a rocky step forced teams into a 250m portage to reach the sea. What looked like a simple carry really wasn't for many of the teams. Some pulled out much too early and others tried to make a way through bog, tussock and rocky pools, which was all but impossible.
Once through, the final part of the paddle was on the sea in the tidal channels of the entrance to Loch Moidart, starting with a visit to the crumbling, but still impressive, Tioram Castle. This sits on the tidal island Eilean Tioram, and teams left their kayaks on the causeway and ran up to collect the checkpoint on the castle walls.
Originally they were to take the South Channel out to the coast and follow this north to Glenuig, but the sea state and wind meant plan B was in operation. This was to paddle into the tidal Loch Moidart and exit on the main road to the north, then walk into Glenuig.
With the tide out for much of the afternoon and evening the exit to the road was a challenge, a very muddy one! From the tiny low tide channel it was a haul through deep and sticky tidal mud for 200m to reach the shore. It took teams a lot of effort and determination to get to the new TA! Team Rebel Talent were struggling and Carrick (Pyro) Armer got firmly stuck for a while! Sank in up to his knees he had to reach down and dig his feet out, then retrieve his trainers, before finally staggering ashore plastered in mud.
Luckily there was a small waterfall at the roadside on the walk to Glenuig which teams could use to clean up.
The TA at Glenuig promised the "best village hall in the world" and it was mighty impressive and very comfortable, but teams wanted to be on their way for the Glenfinnan ride. The first CP was at the Glenfinnan monument a location made famous by the Harry Potter books and thousands visit daily to see the place used for the location of Hogwarts and visit the viaduct used in the first film. Teams taking the longer route to Arkaig and Kingie Pool rode out under the viaduct, and short course teams could continue along the road to the next TA near Fort William.
They may have a long wait for the leaders however, as the full course ride is long. The leaders may not arrive until dawn tomorrow, and then teams will set off on another iconic stage - the climb up the North Face of Ben Nevis to the summit of the UK's highest peak.
